A decade ago, few would have bet on Shwapno’s survival, let alone its dominance. Between 2010 and 2013, the Bangladeshi grocery chain operated only 37 to 38 outlets and struggled to stay afloat. Today, with more than 750 stores nationwide, Shwapno stands as the country’s largest grocery retailer and one of its most remarkable turnaround stories.

The vibrant pulse of Dhaka city beats to many rhythms, and among them is the perpetual debate over where to buy the day’s groceries.

The smell hits first. In Dhaka’s Karwan Bazar, the air is thick with the mingled scent of hilsa, coriander and sweat. Under tarpaulin roofs sellers shout prices over the hum of traffic, feet splash through puddles, and bargaining is both ritual and survival.