English Barmaids and Slaves in Calcutta

Bappa Chakravarty

Mani Sankar Mukherji, popularly known in Kolkata as simply 'Sankar,' has written many a book, fiction and nonfiction alike, with some bestsellers among them. One of the more popular of Bengali novelists, he hit it big from the very start when he started serializing a novel in Desh magazine in the 1950s, and has continued to write through the '60s down to the present day. While he has been dismissed by critics as a writer practiced at producing potboilers, that may be a little bit of a facile generalization. Sankar is of a generation of Bengali writers who began writing at a time when the 19th century European realist novel had a great hold on their imagination, and one can see the marks of that both in the sweep and careful characterization in their works. Not for that age the dessicated intellectualism that is our lot today - they liked Zola and Dickens. A novelist like Sankar (which is how the ordinary Bengali reader referred to him) took pride in the telling of a tale, following the dictates of plotting, characters and suspense, and in being responsive to readers' demands. Perhaps it tells something about his qualities in the above departments that two of his novels, Seemabaddha and Jana Aranya, were turned into movies by no less than Satyajit Ray, as 'Company Limited' and 'The Middleman' respectively. No doubt it was his sharp observation and intimate knowledge of Calcutta life at all levels that drew the legendary film director's attention. It was a knowledge gained first-hand by Sankar, who when he first came to Calcutta from Bongaon village (near the present Indo-Bangladesh border) before the Second World War, worked variously as a street hawker, a typewriter cleaner, a part-time school teacher and a clerk in a jute and gunny broking firm to earn a living - jobs that provided the material for the beginning pages of Chowringhee. Now this classic novel Sankar is known by among Bengalis of a certain generation has been made available for a newer set of readers of English language fiction by Penguin India, as well as for those readers to whom the Bengali original remains inaccessible. Chowringhee was a huge hit when it first came out in 1962, followed by translations in all the major Indian languages. Set in 1950s Calcutta, it is a sprawling saga of the lives of managers, employees and guests at a huge Calcutta hotel, the Shahjahan. Shankar, its newest employee and the book's narrator, "the wide-eyed adolescent from the small neighbourhood of Kashundia who had years ago, crossed the Ganga on the steamer Amba to gape at the high court," proves to be the perfect foil to the big bad city. His voice is that particular blend of naivete and guile that is necessary to spin this story to its conclusion. Here is the full story of an older Calcutta, its seamier underbelly of unfulfilled desires and broken dreams exposed, with its bars and nor'westers and liasions both licit and illicit, the "Keshto Cafe, situated next to Ripon College," and Samar Sen's poetry. The city thus itself emerges as a central character in the human drama, and what unfolds is not just a story of individual lives but also the chronicle of a metropolis now vanished, as can be glimpsed at by the excerpt reproduced here, where Hobbs the old Englishman tells of a time when Calcutta had Englishwomen as barmaids and a thriving, if not well-publicized, slave trade. Shankar's tale weaves together the stories of several people whose lives come together in the suites, restaurants, bar and backrooms of the hotel - the enigmatic manager Marco Polo, the debonair receptionist Sata Bose (who can quote Omar Khayuum on hotel management, 'It's difficult for a country to get a good prime minister, but it's even more difficult to get a good hotel manager'), the tragic hostess Karabi Guha, and Hobbs the Englishman who knows everything about the city that was worth knowing. And Phokla Chatterjee! A large number of the characters in the book were modeled on real-life people and semi-celebrities, and this was an extra special allure of the book for readers, who while reading could also speculate richly on who was the model for whom. The book gives us a close look of the reading tastes of a previous generation of Bengalis, especially women, who tended to be inside their homes and have few pastimes, of which novel reading and the occasional film were the dominant ones. I, in fact, remember, both my mother and my grandmother being avid readers of Bengali novels, and though I cannot recall if I ever saw this book in their hands during the long hot afternoons when they picked up their thick paperback novels after finishing with their household work, I am absolutely sure they could not have easily put down this page-turner once they had begun it. Perhaps a later generation will like it too, for its sturdy, old-fashioned values, in an English translation by Arunava Sinha that reads easily. Mr. Sinha is a journalist who was born in Kolkata and read English literature at Jadavpur University. His previous translations of modern and contemporary Bengali writers have been for Calcutta Skyline, a city newspaper. He now resides in New Delhi. On the front cover of the book is a quote from a Vikram Seth review, and I can't resist reproducing it. "I read Chowringhee many years back in Hindi translation and lost myself in it for days. It was a wonderful experience - both gripping and moving. I…hope (this English translation) gets the wide readership it deserves." Reading Vikram's words, one has to wonder whether Sankar's novel, in some way, was the seed that later sprouted as the gigantic tree of A Suitable Boy. There are striking similarities between the two books in terms of plot devices and characterization, but most of all in the desire of both authors to write a sprawling human saga that encompassed a whole generation and its culture.
Bappa Chakravarty is a journalist and sometime critic based in Bangalore.

Excerpt

'Our story in intimately connected with the Suez Canal,' said Hobbs. 'Before it was built, those reckless adventurers went round the Cape of Good Hope to come to Calcutta. In the absence of hotels they spent the nights in barges at Chandpal Ghat. No blue-eyed beauty came running across the ocean to entertain them, so if the craving got really bad, they had to quench their thirst with the strictly Indian variety. 'Then, in 1762, William Parker decided to open a bar for the entertainment of Calcutta's gentlemen. Only alcohol was on the agenda, barmaids were not part of the scheme of things. The board, too, granted a licence, on the condition that the house couldn't be kept open in the daytime, for if it was, the younger lot would start playing truant. 'Many more bars came up after that, but it was barmen, or khidmatgars as they were called, all the way. Even Le Galle, who had taken the contract for wining and dining the barrister and his cronies during the trial of Nanda Kumar, didn't have barmaids in his tavern. He charged two-and-a-quarter rupees for every lunch and dinner. Mohan Prasad ordered that the meals be sent to the court-- sixteen lunches and sixteen dinners every day. We know of Nanda Kumar's hanging, but haven't kept track of Le Galle. After the verdict was delivered, Nanda Kumar became immortal by going to the gallows but there was no trace of Mohan Prasad. Eventually, Le Galle had to go to court to recover his dues for the lunches and dinners he had served - he had to sue to get his six hundred and twenty-nine rupees.' Hobbs handed cups of coffee to us. We were about to protest, but he said, 'I'm not anti-India, but those who are under the impression you don't get coffee anywhere in the world except at the India Coffee House should pay me a visit.' Without sparing a glance at our bewildered faces, Hobbs continued, 'It was after the Suez Canal was opened that eighteen-year-old Englishwomen, with nectar in their breasts and wine glasses in their hands, started coming to Calcutta. Which is why restaurants and hotels in Charnock's city began to flourish after the canal was opened in 1869.' As he spoke, Hobbs slowly went back to the past when barmaids used to stand at the bar and serve drinks - anot local women, but authentic Englishwomen. Newspaper advertisements would announce: 'Our new barmaids will be arriving in Calcutta by such-and-such ship from London.' Some would come on six-month contracts and others on two-year ones. The British representatives of Shahjahan and Hotel de Europe would write, 'Have located a beautiful girl, do you want her?' The reply would be sent immediately: 'We have great faith in your taste - we hope you won't let us down before Calcutta's customers!' Back would come the answer: 'I've been sending barmaids not just to Calcutta but major ports round the world for many years, and I've never heard a word of criticism. Girls I've chosen have turned around the fortunes of hotels - they've doubled sales at the bar. To tell you the truth, my only concern is that hotels in Calcutta can't hold on to the girls. Before their contracts run out, the girls ensconce themselves elsewhere. That harms me - they promise to send me a part of their salaries, but I don't get it if they change jobs.' 'Have you seen any of these barmaids?' I couldn't resist asking. Hobbs laughed. 'Do you think I'm a spring chicken? And do you suppose I came to Calcutta just the other day? If I'd come a little earlier I might have even seen a slave or two.' 'Slaves!' 'You youngsters know nothing. Even halfway through the last century, human beings used to be sold in Calcutta. English ladies and gentlemen and even the local gentry would buy boys and girls from Murgitola and bring them home. If they ran away, they would place advertisements in the papers, promising rewards."